Tamil Nadu, often referred to as the “Land of Temples”, is a treasure trove of spiritual, historical, and architectural marvels. With over 33,000 temples, Tamil Nadu stands as a testimony to ancient culture, reflecting centuries of devotion, artistic brilliance, and architectural grandeur.
These temples I am writing about are not very well known, outside Tamil Nadu or possibly at a stretch in South India. So why bother about them, write about them? Perhaps a fair question. These places are living time capsules. Every pillar, maybe moss covered or with faded carvings, holds the weight of stories, spanning centuries of dynastic histories, offering a fascinating glimpse of religious, cultural, mythological stories, some told aloud, many whispered and changing with time!
Let me share a very personal trip made last year starting with Mannargudi near Tanjore in Tamil Nadu. This is where my father-in-law G V Raghavan grew up and then moved to Giridih Jharkhand in 1946 made a business, a life, a name respectfully and lovingly remembered even today. This trip was my sister in law Rita Sridhar’s first trip to where her father grew up.
The Mannargudi Temple, dedicated to Lord Rajagopalaswamy (a form of Vishnu), is one of the largest Vaishnavite temples in India. Known as the “Dakshina Dwaraka” (Southern Dwaraka), this magnificent shrine boasts 16 gopurams, massive temple complex, a vast temple tank (Haridra Nadi), and intricately carved stone pillars. The temple is a major pilgrimage site, especially during the Panguni Brahmotsavam festival, which draws thousands of devotees.
The resplendent presiding deity and the gorgeous utsava murti, are unforgettable
They hand over Santana Gopalakrishna in his small bed on Sheshnag to you to hold and pray. It’s such a moving moment!
Rajagopalaswamy temple has not been glorified by Alvars, though it is classified as one of the Abimana Stalas, which are considered holy temples in Vaishnava tradition. However, Sri Purandara dasa, known as Pithamaha of Carnatic music from Vijaya nagara empire had visited this place and glorified Him by composing a Kannada song ” Kande Mannaru Krisha na” and “Mannaru Krishnanege Mangala”. This information is part of temple lore.
On the way to Mannargudi we stopped at the Kodanda Rama temple at Vaduvur. Such an ancient temple with beautiful idols. Lord Rama handsome with his bow!
We watched the Sahasranama Archana as it was concluding. Each temple in Tamil Nadu tells a unique story, woven with mythology, devotion, and unique tales. The temple is glorified by Maharishi Valmiki and classified as one of the 108 Abhimana Kshethrams of the Vaishnavite tradition. This temple is called the Dakshina Ayodhya (Ayodhya of South India) and one of Pancha Rama Kshetram.
Then on to Kumbakonam, renowned for its cultural and historical richness, has a treasure trove of temples that reflect the region’s deep-rooted spiritual heritage and architectural marvels. It was a mad rush to see the temples before the afternoon closure. Lord Vishnu in his various forms always prefers an afternoon siesta. His day starts early, you see.
Our first stop was Ramaswamy temple. The temple is counted as one of the temples built on the banks of River Kaveri. Five temples of Vishnu are connected together to make one of the 108 Vishnu temples, Divya Desam. They are Sarangapani Temple, Chakrapani Temple, Ramaswamy Temple, Rajagopalaswamy Temple, and Varaha Perumal Temple.Ramaswamy temple built during the Nayak era, this temple is known for its intricate murals depicting the entire Ramayana. The garba griha features Rama along with Sita, Lakshmana, Bharata, Shatrughna, and Hanuman – a rare complete family shrine. Difficult to describe, should I just say Wow…!!!The grandeur of King Rama after his coronation is seen seated on the throne with wife Sita, all brothers Lakshman Bharat and Shatrughan and of course Hanuman. Large majestic deities looking more than life like, you feel they are going to tell you something.
Next, we visited Sarangapani, the Lord Vishnu in his resting form This is called a Divya Desam, among the revered108 Tirupatis, the shrine displays Vishnu in a reclining posture within a chariot-shaped sanctum. It’s among the largest Vishnu temples in South India and is architecturally comparable to Srirangam.
The mid-day sun on a euphemistically called second summer afternoon did not dampen our enthusiasm even as our bodies were damp with sweat! Next visit was to Chakrapani temple, Lord Vishnu as Chakrapani in his standing pose with the chakra, discus. Dedicated to Vishnu’s Sudarshana Chakra form, this temple is revered as the place where the discus descended to bless sage Sudarsana. The temple is known for its unique idol where the Chakra is worshipped independently.
The last stop is Oppiliappan temple. A Divya Desam temple where offerings are made without salt, as per legend involving Bhoomi Devi. The huge deity Lord Opilliappan much like Lord Balaji at Tirupati but bigger I felt. Again, we were very lucky to see the afternoon alankar, and deeparadhana. The divine marriage story of this temple is very interesting. The sage Markandeya worshipped Vishnu and desired to have Lakshmi as his daughter and Vishnu as his son-in-law. Once Markandeya was on a holy trip and after reaching Thiruvinnagaram, he felt it was the right place to get his desire fulfilled. Markandeya started a severe penance seeking Lakshmi’s blessings. Lakshmi appeared as a baby under the Tulsi plant. Markandeya recognized the baby as Lakshmi and raised her. When the young girl reached adolescence, in Shravan, Vishnu appeared as an old man and proposed marriage to her. Markandey, after recognizing him, married him to his daughter.
All temples were blessed to get darshan absolutely close up with Archana, aarati, Prasad. A long day but feeling so blessed, so content on the first day of Navratri 2024! Was it nearly a year ago, but my memories are so vivid! That is because they are truly magical, with spiritual energy so strong to rejuvenate and strengthen one.These temples embody the essence of Tamil heritage. They proudly carry scars of ancient warfare, worn out over time. They are architectural gems that luckily have escaped the atrocities of modern(?) renovations. They remind us of saints, devout singers, and touching miracles. They emphasise that sacredness does not require grandeur. Sometimes it is there waiting in shaded temple corridors, next to a pond, out of sight, waiting to be noticed again.
Shared by : Prabha Raghunandan
