Travel brings in a new perspective to life which many times become transformative. On my first solo backpack, I decided to travel to Bastar, the forbidden land for many blinded by living in large cities. My journey as a solivagant commenced on February 09, 2019, to the most fascinating land inhabited by beautiful, sensitive & kindest people living in an unparalleled landscape populated by the most melodious cascades.
Access to Bastar was either from Raipur or Vishakapatnam and thereafter bus ride from Raipur or a train journey from Vishakapatnam to Jagdalpur. However, Jagdalpur is now connected by air with affordable flights operating from Raipur and few other cities thus making the ‘Forgotten Land’ or ‘Land of Dandkaranya’ accessible to wanderlusts.
I arrived late in the evening at Jagdalpur after an eight-hour bus ride from Raipur. The next day hitched a ride to a village and spent a few days with locals and extremely bright kids of a well-equipped primary school. The dense Kanger forest formed by sedimentary rocks looked more like strokes of a paintbrush and the caves with exquisite stalactite and stalagmites appeared like deities. Titathgarh, a fascinating cascade mythologically relevant, as Sita spent many years during the period of exile is a traveller’s delight.
Travelling to Bastar and not trekking through the dense rainforest to Dholkal peak in Dantewada to meet Ganesha would have been sacrilegious. It is a soulful journey walking through rain curated wood, streams, and thick forests. The final stretch through narrow rock passage and the first sight of the eleventh century Ganesha idol placed by Nagavanshi dynasty was mesmerising.
My tryst with Ganesha coincided with my fiftieth atop Dholkal peak with a view of Bailadila range amidst the melody of chirping birds and hustling winds. From here I travelled to Barsur located on the banks of Indrawati river with 147 temples and the same number of lakes, many of which have dried up now. Most of the temples were constructed by the Nagavanshi dynasty. I celebrated my fiftieth in the backdrop of setting sun along the Indrawati river with six local lads who now are friends for life.
My next stop Chitrakote where Indrawati cascades down a hundred feet cliff leaving one bewitched. I spent the night at Tirath being sung into sleep by the melodious Indrawati, most peaceful night of my life.
As an offbeat destination, Bastar is a go-to place and travellers’ delight. Even though I had travelled extensively but my journey as a solivagant commenced in Bastar, also known as ‘Land of Dandkaranya’ – the place where I discovered my soul.
-Written by Vishal Nigam
Instagram @bohemiansolivagant
